“后时尚时代”

时尚与风格的缔造者、全球最负盛名的时尚摄影师为你带来超越时尚的传奇叙事！

 

 

由摄影学者、瑞士力洛克美术馆馆长娜塔莉·赫斯多佛（Nathalie Herschdorfer）策划，上海摄影艺术中心（SCoP）荣幸呈现保罗· 罗维西（Paolo Roversi）、尼克·奈特（Nick Knight）、已故的彼得·林德伯格（Peter Lindbergh）（1944-2019）、布鲁斯·韦伯（Bruce Weber）、马里奥·特斯蒂诺（Mario Testino）和尤尔根·泰勒（Juergen Teller）等一系列富有创意的摄影师的作品。SCoP也为能展出女性摄影师艾伦·冯·安沃斯（Ellen von Unwerth）、薇薇安娜·萨森（Viviane Sassen）、伊内兹·冯·兰姆斯韦德（Inez Van Lamsweerde）、艾玛·萨默顿（Emma Summerton）、张仁雅(Ina Jang)，以及两位中国青年摄影师薛炜和冯立的作品而感到骄傲。究竟这些传奇摄影师们如何通过其高度个人化的视觉美学来超越人们对时尚的固有定义？和我们一起探寻吧！

近几十年来，时尚摄影已不再局限于简单地描绘其兜售的商品。今天的时尚摄影师们通过其视界和创造力，试图在照片中呈现各种各样的通过时尚定义风格、定义自我的可能性。然而并非所有摄影师都能成功做到这一点。时尚的潮流快速更迭，令人应接不暇。摄影师们想要在这时尚与图像的洪流中留下痕迹，就必须从每一季的秀场和街头汲取灵感，并仰赖于自身的天马行空的想象力和高超的图像表现力。对于本次展览中的摄影师而言，这样的挑战无疑是令其振奋，且硕果累累的。

上海或许是中国最有风格的城市之一，成为“后时尚时代”国际巡展的一部分，SCoP对此感到十分荣幸。这些作品不仅仅展现了时尚摄影通过模特来兜售商品的巧妙匠心，更映照出现代社会中着装是如何定义我们人格的方方面面。可以说，无论男女，着装定义和塑造着每个人。女性怀着与男性同等的热情推动着时尚产业。整整一代的女性摄影师：奥丽维亚·毕（Olivia Bee）、可可·卡皮唐（Coco Capitan）、佐伊·格特纳（Zoë Ghertner）、张仁雅（Ina Jang）、薇薇安娜·萨森（Viviane Sassen）、叶莲娜·耶姆丘克（Yelena Yemchuk）等，都希望超越时尚产业中的传奇男性摄影师，在时尚摄影史上留下属于自己浓墨重彩色一笔。

空口无凭，来SCoP亲身感受这些极 具创意的摄影师用视觉语言叙述的后时尚时代吧！

 

   “后时尚时代”囊括了最负盛名的时尚摄影师，包括尼克·奈特（Nick Knight）、保罗·罗维西（Paolo Roversi）、彼得·林德伯格（Peter Lindbergh）、迈尔斯·奥尔德里奇（Miles Aldridge）以及艾伦·冯·安沃斯（Ellen von Unwerth），更有新一代摄影师，如布洛默斯&舒姆（Blommers & Schumm）、索威·桑德波（Sølve Sundsbø）、丹尼尔·桑瓦尔德（Daniel Sannwald）、薇薇安娜·萨森（Viviane Sassen）以及埃里克·麦迪根·赫克（Erik Madigan Heck）等人的近百件作品，欢迎大家前来观展！

 

参展艺术家

迈尔斯·奥尔德里奇（Miles Aldridge）、肯特·贝克（Kent Baker）、迈克尔·鲍姆加滕（Michael Baumgarten）、奥丽维亚·毕（Olivia Bee）、布洛默斯&舒姆（Blommers & Schumm）、卡特·伯洛福（Koto Bolofo）、可可·卡皮唐（Coco Capitan）、埃莉诺·卡卢奇（Elinor Carucci）、伊莱恩·康斯坦丁（Elaine Constantine）、梅西·卡曾斯（Maisie Cousins）、杰克·戴维斯（Jack Davison）、乔纳森·德·维莱尔（Jonathan de Villiers）、霍斯特·迪克格尔德斯（Horst Diekgerdes）、佐伊·格特纳（Zoë Ghertner）、勒内·哈伯马赫（René Habermacher）、本·哈塞特（Ben Hassett）、艾美·霍温（Aimée Hoving）、张仁雅（Ina Jang）、保罗·荣格 (Paul Jung)、塞巴斯蒂安·金（Sebastian Kim）、尼克·奈特（Nick Knight）、阿娜伊斯·勒乌（Anaïs Leu）、冯立（Feng Li）、彼得·林德伯格（Peter Lindbergh）、格伦·卢琦福德（Glen Luchford）、埃里克·麦迪根·赫克（Erik Madigan Heck）、雷蒙德·迈尔（Raymond Meier）、让·巴布提斯·蒙蒂诺（Jean-Baptiste Mondino）、文汉娜 (Hanna Moon)、马顿·派洛基（Marton Perlaki）、保罗·罗维西（Paolo Roversi）、丹尼尔·桑瓦尔德（Daniel Sannwald）、薇薇安娜·萨森（Viviane Sassen）、舍尔腾斯&阿贝内斯（Scheltens & Abbenes）、斯科特·舒曼（Scott Schuman）、申和济（Heji Shin）、艾玛·萨默顿（Emma Summerton）、索威·桑德波（Sølve Sundsbø）、尤尔根·泰勒（Juergen Teller）、马里奥·特斯蒂诺（Mario Testino）、伊内兹·冯·兰姆斯韦德和维努德·玛达丁（Inez Van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin）、威利·温德佩尔（Willy Vanderperre）、艾伦·冯·安沃斯（Ellen von Unwerth）、本·沃茨（Ben Watts）、布鲁斯·韦伯（Bruce Weber）、薛炜（Kiki Xue）、叶莲娜·耶姆丘克（Yelena Yemchuk）、特西玛·耶斯特（Txema Yeste）。

 

策展人

   娜塔莉·赫斯多佛（Nathalie Herschdorfer）是一位摄影策展人和艺术史学家，现任瑞士力洛克美术馆馆长。在过去六年里，她策划了亚历克斯·普拉杰(Alex Prager)、杉本博司(Hiroshi Sugimoto)、维克·穆尼兹(Vik Muniz)、托德·希多(Todd Hido)、盖瑞·温诺格兰德(Garry Winogrand)和亨利·卡蒂埃-布列松(Henri Cartier-Bresson)等摄影师的展览。近年来她作为策展人与摄影展览基金会（The Foundation for the Exhibition of Photography）合作，策划了许多时尚摄影的展览。

   此前，她曾于法国洛桑的爱丽舍宫美术馆（Musée de l’Elysée）任策展人。娜塔莉·赫斯出版了多部著作，包括《泰晤士和哈德逊摄影词典》（

策展The Thames & Hudson Dictionary of Photography）、《进入时尚:康泰纳仕整世纪摄影集》（Coming into Fashion: A Century of Photography at Condé Nast）、《之后:直面历史的当代摄影》（Afterwards: Contemporary Photography Confronting the Past）,以及《新版瑞士建筑》（New Swiss Architecture）(以上皆由泰晤士和哈德逊出版社出版)。近期著作有《身体: 摄影集》（Body: The Photography Book）（泰晤士和哈德逊出版社）、《玛格南摄影师的山脉》（Mountains by Magnum Photographers）（帕莱斯特出版社）以及将于2020年5月出版的《泰晤士和哈德逊摄影词典》中文版。

 

摄影展览基金会

(The Foundation for the Exhibition of Photography)

摄影展览基金会（FEP）是一个成立于2003年的非营利组织。总部设于美国明尼阿波利斯市，一个常年被艺术孕育的文化之城。FEP成功举办了许多遍及四大洲35个国家的巡回展览。展览画册以多种语言出版。展览包括“文明：当代生活启示录”、“阿诺德·纽曼:向大师致敬”、“威廉·威格曼：何以为人(William Wegman: Being Human)”等。

 

艺术家作品

Aldridge Miles_Vogue Italia

 

Bee Olivia_Larsen

 

Jang Ina_A ball. The Cut _ New York Magazine

 

Jang Ina_Papier collé

 

Jung Paul_PJW505 N°3426

 

Jung Paul_PJW513 N°7747

 

Jung Paul_PJW5083946

 

Kim Sebastian_Teen Vogue

 

Knight Nick_Past, Present & Couture, Dior

 

Knight Nick_Snakes for Alexander McQueen

 

Leu Anaïs_Walk with Pierre Hardy

 

Lindbergh Peter_Estelle Lefébure, Karen Alexander, Rachel Williams, Linda Evangelista, Tatjana Patitz & Christy Turlington, Santa Monica

 

Lindbergh Peter_Linda Evangelista, New York

 

Madigan Heck-Erik_Comme des Garçons

 

Madigan Heck-Erik_Erdem

 

Sannwald Daniel_Garage Magazine, Fall_Winter

 

Sølve Sundsbø, Elena in Gaultier

 

von Unwerth Ellen_Rich Bitch, Paris

 

Xue Kiki_Mongolian Girl

 

Xue Kiki_Peking Opera

 

Yemchuk Yelena_T okyo

 

 

Beyond Fashion

Images from the world’s most famous fashion photographers; the legendary creators of all we understand today as the culture of fashion and style!

 

Curated by photography specialist Nathalie Herschdorfer, director of the Swiss Museum of Fine Arts Le Locle, SCoP is thrilled to present an amazing array of photographs from the creative vision of photographers like Paolo Roversi and Nick Knight, the late Peter Lindbergh (1944-2019), Bruce Weber, Mario Testino and Juergen Teller. We are also proud to do so alongside the work of women photographers like Ellen von Unwerth, Viviane Sassen, Inez Van Lamsweerde, Emma Summerton, Ina Jang, and two of China’s hot young photographers Kiki Xue (薛炜) and Feng Li (冯立). Join us in discovering how their highly individual approach to the aesthetics of an image takes their works beyond the simple ideas we have about fashion.

In recent decades, fashion photography has expanded its horizons beyond a “hard sell” of the garments themselves. The creative vision of its photographers today gives ever more visual form to the diverse ways in which we like to identify ourselves. Success is elusive. How to keep up with a pace of style that would be for most people exhausting? To make a mark, fashion photographers rely upon creative vision today like never before where each new season presents a new array of aspirations. For the photographers presented here, the challenge is clearly exhilarating.

“Beyond Fashion” comes to Shanghai as part of an international tour. And, located arguably in China’s most stylish city, SCoP is honored to play host to an exhibition which goes beyond the simple artifice of a conventional fashion photo, to look not only at how models are used to sell us the garments we desire, but at how clothing has come to define everything about our personality. In less politically-correct times, we would describe our theme as “Clothes maketh the man".

Today, clothes clearly maketh everyone! Not only do women drive the fashion industry with a gusto equal to that of their male counterparts, but there is an entire generation of female photographers like Olivia Bee, Coco Capitan, Zoë Ghertner, Ina Jang, Viviane Sassen, Yelena Yemchuk, ambitious to be every bit as good and better than the male legends of the fashion industry.

 

But don’t just take our word for it. Come and see for yourself how these amazingly creative photographers play with aesthetics in extraordinary ways to project narratives that reach beyond fashion.

 

“Beyond Fashion” presents nearly 100 works from highly acclaimed fashion photographers, including legendary figures like Nick Knight, Paolo Roversi, Peter Lindbergh, Miles Aldridge and Ellen von Unwerth, as well as representative figures of the new generation like Blommers & Schumm, Solve Sundsbo, Daniel Sannwald, Viviane Sassen and Erik Madigan Heck.

Join us in celebrating photography about the culture of style that goes far beyond fashion!

 

 

THE PHOTOGRAPHERS

Miles Aldridge, Kent Baker, Michael Baumgarten, Olivia Bee, Blommers & Schumm, Koto Bolofo, Coco Capitan, Elinor Carucci, Elaine Constantine, Maisie Cousins, Jack Davison, Jonathan de Villiers, Horst Diekgerdes, Zoë Ghertner, René Habermacher, Ben Hassett, Aimée Hoving, Ina Jang, Paul Jung, Sebastian Kim, Nick Knight, Anaïs Leu, Feng Li (冯立), Peter Lindbergh, Glen Luchford, Erik Madigan Heck, Raymond Meier, Jean-Baptiste Mondino, Hanna Moon, Marton Perlaki, Paolo Roversi, Daniel Sannwald, Viviane Sassen, Scheltens & Abbenes, Scott Schuman, Heji Shin, Emma Summerton, Sølve Sundsbø, Juergen Teller, Mario Testino, Inez Van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin, Willy Vanderperre, Ellen von Unwerth, Ben Watts, Bruce Weber, Kiki Xue (薛炜), Yelena Yemchuk, Txema Yeste

 

 

THE CURATOR

Nathalie Herschdorfer is a curator and art historian specializing in the history of photography. She is Director of the Museum of Fine Arts Le Locle, Switzerland, where for the last 6 years she has organized photography shows of the work of Alex Prager, Hiroshi Sugimoto, Vik Muniz, Todd Hido, Garry Winogrand and Henri Cartier-Bresson. She has worked as a curator with the Foundation for the Exhibition of Photography for several years, specifically on projects dedicated to fashion photography.

Previously, she was a curator at the Musée de l’Elysée in Lausanne. She is the author of several books, among them

The Thames & Hudson Dictionary of Photography, Coming into Fashion: A Century of Photography at Condé Nast,Afterwards: Contemporary Photography Confronting the Past,and New Swiss Architecture (all Thames & Hudson). Most recent publications are Body: The Photography Book (Thames & Hudson), Mountains by Magnum Photographers (Prestel) and the Chinese language version of The Thames & Hudson Dictionary of Photography that will be published in May 2020.

 

 

THE Foundation for the Exhibition of Photography (FEP)

FEP was founded in 2003 as a non-profit organization. Based in Minneapolis, a city with a vibrant tradition for support for the arts, FEP has produced a large number of highly successful exhibition travelling to 35 countries on 4 continents. Catalogues produced in conjunction with the exhibition have been published in many language editions. Exhibitions include “Civilization: The Way We Live Now’; “Arnold Newman: Masterclass”, “William Wegman: Being Human” among numerous others.